June 23, 2013
Victory!
Caunes to Mèze

          I get up at 6:30 a.m. and am in the Seat Lion by 7:25 a.m., on the road to Mèze.  The roads are virtually devoid of cars.  As a result of not having to think about other drivers, when I see the first sign for "Béziers" at the rotary I also see the sign for the A-75 toll road and turn left, as I was instructed by Francine.  A little further, and I see another rotary, which also indicates the A-75.  I travel all the way to the turn-off for Pèzenas and from there to Sète and Mèze.  On that road, I pass a sign for Montady stop for ten minutes to verify that I am indeed, on the road to Pèzenas.  From there I go straight on to Mèze.  I have made it to Mèze in 1 hr 35.  This is progress.

          Francine is surprised to see me --she thought I would arrive by eleven o'clock.  I go off to the market to give her time to shower and change.  The Sunday market features vendors of specialities of the southwest, friandes, flaky lard pastries stuffed with anchovies, or tomatoes and cheese, pâtes stuffed with every kind of charcuterie or meat.  I stand on line in the bakery near St. Hilaire to buy a corn loaf, I visit the covered market and buy a spread made of a mixture of tomatoes and olive oil that will work well with the corn loaf.  I also buy cheese from the fromager, a cheese from Franche Comté, in the northeast, a buttery, nutty product.

          Tuesday I have to visit Sète to pick up a friend at the S.N.C.F. station, so Francine takes it upon herself to take me on a practice run to the gare.  As I take the wheel, the sun is shining brightly, and Sète's canals are on show.  I turn right at their end and move uphill, past the sign for the Musée Paul Valèry, towards the Corniche, the coastal road. We pass a tony area of Sète, seaside condominia built painted dusty orange and ivory, finally arriving at Sète place, a subdivision of the city.  I park the car and we walk to the beach, which faces the Mediterranean.  The sea is blue-green and the two restaurants on the beach, Dôme and Ola, are giant outdoor eating spots with cover from the sun.  Francine prefers Ola, so we go there.

          Francine suggests that we order couteaux.  The word is the French word for knives, but also means razor clams.  Whenever I have had these before, they are large and rubbery, so I am surprised when a plate of ten comes, each about as large as a finger.  They have been prepared with olive oil and garlic; they are so good, the sauce has to be sopped up with some bread.  A salad made of local greens completes the meal.

           Here are some photos of the beach at Sète plage: