June 30, 2013; The feast of Saint Peter, Mèze

June 30, 2013
The Feast of Saint Peter
Mèze

     Today, all over the Roman Catholic world, it is the feast of Saint Peter, the fisherman.  All over France's ports, small and large, there are Masses followed by processions and a blessing of the boats.

      Mèze is no different, and the day harks back to the time long ago when Mèze was a tiny fishing village on the Étang de Thau.  In honor of the Saint, the first Pope and keeper of the keys of heaven's gate, the Mèzois open the Chapel of the Penitents and have Mass said nearby, rather than at Saint Hilaire near the City Hall.

      The band from the village of Villeveyrac, a few kilometers away will play for the Mass and the procession, which may explain why the Mass will not be said in the chapel, but in a large space adjoining.  The members of the band are dressed in the uniform of village bands all over the Mediterranean, be they Spanish, French, Italian or Greek: white shirt, black pants, instruments strapped to the shirt to enable the musicians to play while they process.  The orchestra is called La Jeune France,  although most of its members look pretty long in the tooth.  The orchestra's brass and winds bleat roughly, and the snare and bass drums keep rhythm better suited to a dirge.  They are not and could never be mistaken for a professional orchestra, but the sound of their saxophones, cornets, piccolos and drums is strangely endearing.   The musicians are volunteers; they probably work as masons or at other trades most of the time.  Two local dignitaries are in suits: they only assume the banners of office for the procession; otherwise they are indistinguishable from the congregation of Saint Hilaire of Mèze of the parish of Our Lady of the Smile.  At the back of the benches set up for the Mass, a church fair offers handmade aprons and knitted items along with bric-a-brac, for sale by the ladies of the parish.

     Father Bertrand Lacombe, the vicar-general of the archdiocese of Montpellier, is the celebrant.  His homily speaks of the personal experience of God, be it in contemplation of the beauty of the Étang de Thau, or when together with those who are part of the community that is the village of Mèze, or in a personal relationship of particular meaning.  Such moments, he says, are sources of strength meant to help us through the difficult moments.  He compares God to a GPS, and admits he has one --although he did not need it to get to Mèze.  Father Bertrand, a youngish and thoughtful-looking man in his early fifties, I guess, speaks a beautiful French in a soft voice.  He is accompanied by the two priests who serve at Saint Hilaire.  Interestingly, the taller of the two (whom I saw last Sunday at Saint Hilaire) has shaved off his moustache and long hair for the vicar's visit.  All three are dressed in bright red vestments, which reflect the sun on this gorgeous day.

      The Mass over, four young and robust men in dark bermudas and t-shirts make their way to the carved wooden boat with the figure of Saint Peter in the middle that has been placed to the left of the altar.  The orchestra recesses through a back way and takes the lead, followed by Saint Peter, the priests and the faithful.  The procession, about one hundred people in all, walks through the oldest quarter of Mèze, where streets are narrow and the iron balconies are full of spectators of the procession.

      Finally, the procession reaches the harbor and Saint Peter is put aboard a boat, along with the three priests.  On a small barge, La Jeune France plays as Saint Peter is transported to the middle of the harbor.  Once there, the wooden figure is lowered into the water and Father Bertrand blesses the port and the boats who make their home there.  After an appropriate interval, Saint Peter is returned to the launch, brought back to land and carried back to the Chapel of the Penitents, where he will rest until next June.